Then … When Joey hears his wife is moving out, Buddy drives him home. Here, his Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow II is seen speeding north-ish on Main Street about to swerve in front of traffic into Howard Street (map). Crossing behind him is California State Route 480, aka the Embarcadero Freeway, on its way towards and past the Ferry Building. Further in the distance you can see the trusses of the elevated I-80 freeway on its way to the Bay Bridge.
… and Now, this area has seen lots of changes. Many glassed residential and office towers have been built here since then and the 480 freeway is gone, taken down after being damaged by the 1989 earthquake. But I-80 is still there in the background.
Then … they continue east-ish along Howard, passing the historic 1904 Folgers Coffee Company building at 101 Howard Street that survived both the 1906 and 1989 ‘quakes. Crossing ahead are the two decks of the Embarcadero Freeway.
… and Now, you can’t see it for the sidewalk trees in this matching shot but as mentioned, the Embarcadero Freeway is gone. There are newer buildings down the block but the Folgers building remains; in 2011 it became a downtown campus for USF (makes sense - a business school in the financial district).
Digressing for a moment, just how ugly was the Embarcadero Freeway? Look no further; this 1965 photo, looking down on the newly opened Washington and Clay Street ramps, also shows how it totally isolated the Ferry Building. The plan was to extend it along the Embarcadero as a connector between the city’s two great bridges. But Mother Nature intervened, achieving what all of the protestors couldn’t - read all about it here.
OK, back to the movie. Joey surveys the empty home; he can’t believe she really has left; he takes out his ire on the kitchen cabinets.
Then … Later while walking down the upper section of the Filbert Steps on Telegraph Hill (map) Buddy thinks Joey needs cheering up so he suggests he do the ‘Blind Man’ prank for him. Teddy and Mikey groan - they’ve seen it before - but he insists.
… and Now, the steps are still there for those inclined to exercise (there are reportedly 445 steps in total from the flats at Sansome Street up to Coit tower) or for those who simply enjoy their secluded and peaceful surroundings.
Then … As they approach the last section of the upper steps down to Montgomery Street they laugh and joke about Mikey having it off with his boss’s wife.
… and Now, in the same view today note the wrought iron gate at number 300 - it’s the same one Then and Now!
Then … They cross the upper level of Montgomery Street and descend a set of steps to the street’s lower level where, on the right, the sgrafittoed Malloch House at 1360 Montgomery is a wonderful example of Art Deco Streamline Moderne styling popular in 1936 when it was built.
… and Now, from this vantage point there is still a fine view of the bay where the Bay Bridge reaches over to Yerba Buena Island but most of the house and its sgraffito engravings are hiding behind oversized trees.
The same staircase and building were seen in the 1947 movie Dark Passage as Lauren Bacall pulls up in front of 1360 Montgomery where her character had an apartment. The street’s two different levels are clearly shown; they merge together at Union Street at top right.
And in the 1968 movie Petulia Julie Christie blew into a sousaphone while sitting alongside the top of those same steps. The concrete newel post on the right is the same as the one seen two images above on the left.
Clarence and on-duty cops are at the police station when he hears the news of the Chronicle fire …
… they pile into a car, Clarence hanging on the side, to rush across town to Chron headquarters. (This doorway location is yet to be found - a Los Angeles precinct, a studio back lot, somewhere else?).
Then … They drive out of Golden Gate Avenue in downtown San Francisco, captured here turning east on Market Street. The projecting marquee of the Granada Theater at 1066 Market Street can be seen in the block behind them near the corner of Jones.
… and Now, the same block today. The Granada Theater is no longer there; after being renamed the Paramount in 1931 it was demolished in 1965.
Then … They are on Market again. This view was filmed looking east from 1st Street towards the Ferry Building in the background. Note at top center the ‘MOISE’ sign on the corner of Fremont Street…
… in 1930 … Here’s a photo taken a few years later from the same spot. A city directory entry revealed that the ‘MOISE’ sign belonged to the Moise-Klinkner store that sold a mix of rubber stamps, badges and signs.
… and Now, the traffic nightmare omnipresent on Market Street over the past century has recently been exorcised by the simple expedient of restricting access to commuter vehicles and taxis. Dead center in the distance the Ferry Building still stands like a sentinel on the Embarcadero, visible along most of the 3-mile length of arrow-straight Market Street.
Then … Now heading north they are on Stockton Street entering the south portal of the Stockton Tunnel near Union Square. Market Street crosses at the south end of Stockton.
… and Now, the first block on the left was rebuilt in 1960 as the Sutter-Stockton garage.
Here’s a reverse look at the south entrance of the tunnel in 1953 seven years before the current Sutter-Stockton garage was built.
… and just for fun check out this cool 1913 photo of the tunnel being excavated. It opened in 1914 after taking only 17 months to build. People worked hard in those days. The building at top right at 590 Bush Street is also visible in the image above.
Then … We then see them emerging from the tunnel’s north portal into Chinatown.
… and Now, the north portal today looks the same.
Clarence arrives outside the Chronicle press room to find an angry crowd surrounding Tom, wrongly accusing him of starting the fire. He is hauled off to jail where he briefly sees Ray before being dragged off to his own cell.
Meanwhile the fire rages on while a growing crowd of onlookers gather where Market Street and Geary come together. Customers of Bercovich Cigars on the ground floor at 700 Market Street could conveniently head up to dentist Chas. Strub on the 3rd floor to take care of the yellow stains. The stylishly-hatted lady in white on the 2nd floor windowsill has the best view of all.
Then … Across Market another crowd stands in front of the Monadnock Building at 685 Market adjacent to the Palace Hotel.
… and Now, The Beaux Arts building, built the year after the ‘06 earthquake, now features in its atrium lobby colorful murals depicting in Renaissance Baroque style many well-known San Francisco personalities including Mayor Adolph Sutro, fountain donor Lotta Crabtree and Supervisor Harvey Milk.
For history buffs here’s a 1910 postcard photo of the Monadnock showing the original iteration of Lotta’s Fountain in the foreground.
Then … Teddy’s wife Didi (Judith Ivey) drops him off at a park to play tennis with his three closest friends.
… and Now, These are the public tennis courts on what was then Middle Drive East in Golden Gate Park. The road is now called Nancy Pelosi Drive, renamed in her honor in 2012 (map). The 130 year-old site recently underwent a $30M renovation, reopening in 2021, with 17 rebuilt courts and a new clubhouse.
Then … As Didi leaves she approaches John F. Kennedy Drive, about to make a left past the statue straight ahead and the large white structure at far left.
… and Now, the statue and the structure are of course still there. The only change here is Nancy Pelosi Drive, now much narrower at the junction.
The statue, erected in 1885, is a monument to James Abram Garfield, the 20th President of the United States who was assassinated in 1881. Below him on the pedestal Lady Columbia is holding a broken sword and wreath, referencing the heinous act. The white structure is the Conservatory of Flowers greenhouse and botanical gardens; completed in 1879, it’s the oldest building in the park.
Teddy greets his buddies on the tennis court. From left to right: Joey (Joseph Bologna), Buddy (Charles Grodin) and Mikey (Michael Huddleston). As the movie progresses we’ll find out that Teddy isn’t the only one harboring libidinous thoughts; they are all involved in affairs, Joey in particular serially so.
As they play, note the residence on the left and the palm tree in the background. Hmmm…
Then … In this shot we see a wider view of the same residence between Teddy and Buddy and more palm trees; this is clearly not Golden Gate Park, it was more likely filmed in Southern California. A search for this house, it has two gabled wings (the left one with a chimney stack built against it), led Citysleuth to the Los Angeles Tennis Club in the Hancock Park neighborhood of Los Angeles just a short drive from Hollywood (map).
… and Now, the house is 591 Cahuenga Blvd on the corner of Clinton Street, across Clinton and directly opposite the venerable clubhouse (compare it with the movie view above). The gable with the arched window is also visible two images above at far left.
Then … The boys let out a whoop when they get an unexpected eyeful from the adjacent court.
… and Now, here’s the Los Angeles Tennis Club today; the movie scene was filmed on the court marked with the red marker. Next to it the court in the ‘Then’ image above has since been converted to a parking lot prior to which, coincidentally, this club too had 17 courts.
The iconic Los Angeles Tennis Club at 5851 Clinton Street was incorporated in 1920 and constructed in 1924. Over the past century it has hosted many famous tennis champions and Hollywood celebrities.
In the clubhouse after the match Mikey takes a call; Joey’s wife has just been seen leaving their home with the furniture and all of her belongings; Joey’s philandering has caught up with him. (Check out the subliminal ad - is the Nortel logo subtly suggesting “hey - replace this vintage Western Electric switchboard with our modern one”?).
Yet another fire truck responds to the alarm, this one with a dog chasing after it. We saw the same distinctively liveried pooch in an earlier post, playing the role of Tom McDonald’s dog.
Then … The truck was heading south on Hope Street in downtown Los Angeles. On the left side of the block behind it is the Schools And Colleges building at 625 Hope and beyond that the Hotel Acacia on the corner of Hope and 6th Street.
… and Now, this stretch of Hope Street has become a canyon of steel and glass. Facing us at the cul-de-sac across 6th Street is the Los Angeles Central Library which opened in 1924, the year before the movie was released. So, what then is that turreted building at the same location in the movie shot above?
Here it is … it was the State Normal School (the precursor college to UCLA), seen here at the end of the Hope Street cul-de-sac photographed from 6th Street. Built in 1898, the college was leveled in 1922 to make way for the new Central Library, predating when the movie was filmed so archival footage must have been used for the fire truck scene in the Then image above.
Then … Still in downtown Los Angeles we cut to what’s probably a different truck, traveling east along 5th Street with Pershing Square on the left. The firemen on board are from two different LAFD stations: Truck 2 and Truck 7. The building with the vertical ‘FIREPROOF’ sign right of center in the background is the Hotel Clark at 426 Hill Street.
… and Now, here’s the same view today; most of the buildings have been replaced over the last hundred years but the the Hotel Clark is still there.
Speaking of which, this fine 1920s vintage image of the Hotel Clark reveals all of the signs partially visible in the Then image above.
Then … As the truck takes a right around the corner of Pershing Square into 6th Street we see Sid Grauman’s Metropolitan Theatre on the corner of 6th and Hill. When it opened in 1923 it was the largest in Los Angeles with 3,600 seats.
… and Now, The theatre was renamed the Paramount Downtown Theater in 1929, closed in 1960 and demolished in 1962 to make way for an office project that never materialized. The 16-floor International Jewelry Center was built on the site in 1981; it’s still there today.
This is the theatre when the The Last Edition was filmed. Fans of old cinema can read all about it here.
Then … Now it’s the turn of yet another fire engine, smaller but fully laden, to careen through the streets …
But this was filmed on a studio backlot … the same set appeared 2 years earlier in the 1922 Buster Keaton film Cops featuring Buster performing a stunt on a ladder.
… in the 1920s … The set, circled in the aerial view below, was on the United Studios’ backlot at 5341 Melrose Avenue in Hollywood. (Credit goes to John Bengston’s silent movie location blog for revealing this). The park area beyond it is the Forever Hollywood Cemetery.
… and Now, The Paramount Studios complex occupies the studio site today. The lot has been reconfigured continuously over the decades but the cemetery layout unsurprisingly has not. Melrose Avenue runs across the foreground, Gower Street is on the left side and Van Ness Avenue on the right.
The responders converge on Market and Kearny and waste no time dousing the Chronicle headquarters. Lotta Crabtree’s fountain is seen in the foreground surrounded by gawkers.
Then … This shot looking east down Market Street gives us a closer look at Lotta’s Fountain with a good view of the Palace Hotel on the right, built in 1909 on the site of its predecessor after it burned down in the 1906 fire.
… a vintage photo … the fountain was captured in this matching 1920s photograph taken from the same vantage point. The column of the original fountain was much shorter in height; it was extended in 1916.
… and Now, over the last century the fountain has been used as an annual gathering place of remembrance for survivors of the 1906 earthquake. The last survivor, 3 months old when the earthquake hit, died in 2016 at the age of 109. Note that the fountain’s column has been significantly foreshortened compared to when the movie was filmed, reverting in 1999 back to its design as originally built in 1875. The survivors have all gone but the landmark Palace Hotel is still there, minus the external balconies.
