Then … Director Lucio Fulci originally set his storyline in Louisiana but fortunately for us ended up filming it in San Francisco. It was his first film in the U.S. and he wore his tourist hat when it came to choosing locations. What more iconic if formulaic an intro than to rent a helicopter for the day, fly over the Golden Gate Bridge and tour the city as the opening credits roll?
… and Now, this recent wider panoramic view shows off the beauty of the city spread out before us. The large green expanse in both images is the Presidio, then a military base but since handed over to the city and now open to the public. A bridge feature seen below not there back in 1969 is the central divider which is seamlessly moved daily to add or subtract a lane as demanded by the commute traffic.
Then … Our tour of the city continues - this view across the western span of the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge shows Coit Tower atop Telegraph Hill in the background on the right and Russian Hill off to the left. The Financial District clusters behind the aging piers of the waterfront.
… by 2014 … this image shows the proliferation of the Financial District since the 1960s, spreading South Of Market, an inexorable process that continues to this day. The other big change is along the Embarcadero where many of the piers have been removed, opening up and transforming the waterfront. (Photo credit Q T Luong/ terragalleria.com).
Then … the aerial tour next swings by the domed City Hall at the Civic Center. The building in the foreground right of center is the War Memorial Opera House with its vertically extended roof above the stage.
… by 2008 … this view was taken 12 years ago but is close to how it looks today (2020). An added building is visible in the bottom right corner - the Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, built next to the Opera house in 1980 on the parking lot site seen above. The long narrow pool that ran down the spine of the plaza (barely visible above) has been removed.
Then … Here, our tour guide is flying directly over Russian Hill looking east across the North Beach and Telegraph Hill neighborhoods. The view looks beyond Coit Tower towards Yerba Buena Island and the Bay Bridge. Note the ugly double-decker Embarcadero Freeway at far right, destined to be torn down after being damaged in the 1989 earthquake. In the foreground the twin-spired Saints Peter and Paul church faces Washington Square Park.
… and Now, here’s the same view today, taken from a Russian Hill rooftop. Its wider perspective shows in the left distance the Bay Bridge’s multi-billion dollar eastern span tower that replaced its predecessor, again because of damage from the 1989 earthquake - the western span suspension bridges however survived relatively unscathed. These neighborhoods are little changed since mostly being rebuilt after the 1906 fire.
Then … “Hey, this is San Francisco - let’s fly over Alcatraz!” The island has been a military prison dating back to 1861 but the infamous Federal Penitentiary that we see here - it opened in 1934 - was operational for only 29 years. Nevertheless, the sight of the dramatic skyline and the sounds of the city must have been cruelly painful for the prisoners to see and hear each day.
… and Now, today the former prison is one of San Francisco’s most popular tourist attractions; 1.4 million visitors are shuttled by ferry each year to and from the island. CitySleuth recommends the audio tour!
Then … We next head over to the far west of town to the Pacific Coast - beneath us is the San Francisco Veterans Affairs Medical Center at 42nd Avenue and Clement Street at the former Fort Miley Military Reservation, between Lincoln Park and Point Lobos (map).
… and Now, here’s a recent Google satellite view of the hospital showing significant expansion since then.
The tour ends with the helicopter pilot skimming the surf just off the south end of the Great Highway alongside the San Francisco Zoo (map). In the distance on the left a horizontal green sliver (Golden Gate Park) bisects the Sunset and Richmond districts and Lincoln Park and the Presidio outline the horizon.
Then … Joe is mortified by the news that Malatesta lied about his alibi; he’s now convinced of his murderous guilt. Conflicted, he goes on a walk to try to gather his thoughts. When Malatesta drives up, Joe spurns him and walks away.
… and Now, this was filmed on the upper level of Calhoun Terrace in Telegraph Hill. Note the Ferry building in the distance Then and Now. Note too the vintage street lamp mounted on the wall and the wall’s embossed art deco patterns.
Calhoun Terrace is an unusual two level cul-de-sac just two blocks away from where Joe was staying, at Malatesta’s house (seen earlier in the movie) next to the Montgomery Steps.
In a scene in the 1952 movie The Sniper the eponymous killer hid behind that same lamppost awaiting a victim as she exited her home at 36 Calhoun Terrace via an exterior stairway.
… and Now, from the same viewpoint we see that the original lamppost is still there but the building’s stairway has since been enclosed (the front corner of 36 Calhoun can be seen at the left edge of the Now image above). The lamppost sits atop one of the art deco chevron decorations cast into the concrete wall.
Calhoun Terrace has an interesting history … It has been seen in several other movies, The House On Telegraph Hill, Vertigo and Days Of Wine And Roses amongst them. It was the site of the notorious Hoeffler compound, a revolving-door home to artists and writers in the early 20th century. Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo lived at 42 Calhoun in 1940. Here’s an 1860s photo taken when the street used to connect through to Green Street but before the lower level was established. A descending row of Union Street houses faces us in the background.
The double cul-de-sac is accessed from the end of Union Street at the top of Telegraph Hill. This whimsical realistic drawing by Paul Madonna captures it. (He too picked up on the wall’s art deco touches).
There’s a sheer drop below Calhoun, accentuated by the blatantly illegal quarrying activities of the infamous Gray Brothers at the turn of the 20th century. In this recent upslope view of the precarious cantilevered roadway we see the lamppost pictured in the images above, with 36 Calhoun at far right. Photo by Chris Carlsson.
And one last piece of related trivia … After decades of mutilating the hill and flaunting the law through repeated dynamiting, bribing and cheating, George Gray, one of the brothers, was shot and killed by an employee, Sicilian immigrant Joe Lococco, for not paying his wages. So that was that. End of dynamiting, end of story.
Meanwhile, back at the house, Joe cannot look his fiancé Anna, Malatesta’s cousin, in the eye. She cannot understand the sudden change in him and pleads, to no avail, for an explanation.
Joe has a hard time tracking down Charlie Cuneo but fortuitously Malatesta invites him over for dinner. He relates how he and Malatesta played snooker together at the Vallejo Social Club until one a.m. on the night Father Tomasino was murdered. To Joe’s great relief his concern over Malatesta’s possible guilt is dispelled.
Then … But his precinct Sergeant arrives with disturbing new information. A detective had been following Cuneo that night on another case and witnessed him meet Malatesta at another club that backed onto the alley where the priest was killed then left for several hours leaving Malatesta behind. Cuneo had lied; Malatesta’s alibi was blown.
… and Now, they were at the cul-de-sac at the top of the Montgomery Steps, described in more detail in an earlier post.
Then … Joe asks to be dropped off; they pull up in front of a theater - its marquee is partly visible on the left.
… a vintage photo … This was the Palace Theater at Washington Square park at the junction of Columbus and Powell in North Beach (map). Here’s a c. 1970 image of the theater taken at a time when it was showing Chinese movies (the theater would later be renamed the Pagoda Palace). (The theater was briefly seen in Woody Allen’s 1972 movie Play It Again Sam).
… and Now, After being closed for years the theater was demolished in 2013 when it was deemed the ideal spot to extract the two boring machines that had dug the twin Central Subway tunnels extending the T-Third Street line from near the Giant’s ballpark into Chinatown. It is now a retail/condominium structure, retaining the blade sign in a nod to its past. More’s the pity it didn’t become a subway station (the tunnel had already been extended to here, right?).
Then … Across the park we see Saints Peter and Paul Church and Coit Tower.
… and Now, the same view below also shows the statue mostly obscured by the car, above. It’s a memorial to the Volunteer Fire Dept. of 1839-1866 who protected the city during several conflagrations before the first city fire department was created.
… in 1933 … The statue’s dedication ceremony was attended in force by firemen and residents with vivid memories of the city’s 1906 fire. The church is behind it, as too is Coit Tower which had been completed only months earlier.
Then … Malatesta sits with Joe on the wall outside his house (described in the previous post). He has taken to Joe and generously suggests that he move in with his family. He also tells Joe that on the night Father Tomasino was murdered he was playing cards with friends at the Vallejo Social Club.
… and Now, the concrete wall at the end of the Montgomery Street cul-de-sac has been there since the Montgomery Steps were built in 1928.
Then … If Joe can confirm the alibi it would mean Malatesta was innocent and that he could stop agonizing over it. He moves into his house and settles into his job at Malatesta’s waterfront restaurant on Fisherman’s Wharf, (previously described here). Below, he hauls a crate of fish along the side of the restaurant (which is just off the picture on the right).
… and Now, Scoma’s replaced that restaurant in 1965; in the matching shot today we see its dining room extension occupying the space of the shed and storage boxes (map).
… and Now, Scoma’s today. The original building was the gabled section at far right.
Then … He also lends a hand with the cooking. The original diner back then was called Andy’s Look Out.
… and Now, that modest space became Scoma’s kitchen.
Joe and Anna’s budding romance blossoms when he takes her to a local dance at the Vallejo Social Club, the same place where Malatesta claimed he played cards on the night of the murder. This building’s exterior style is typical of many in North Beach but CitySleuth cannot find this location, including on the North Beach blocks of Vallejo Street. Either the building has been replaced or it was a studio creation.
Then … At the club Joe talks to the card-playing group and learns that Malatesta had left during the evening of the murder to meet a friend, Charlie Cuneo. Later Joe calls his old precinct sergeant for help in finding Cuneo.
… and Now, the above scene was most likely filmed in a studio using a rear projection to set the location. Below is that location, at Fisherman’s Wharf in front of Pier 45 (map). Comparing Then and Now, the Fisherman’s Grotto building exterior on the left is the same but Alioto’s has since added an upper dining floor.
The same location, with another phone booth, appeared 5 years later in Experiment In Terror by which time the Alioto’s upper dining room had already been added.