Then… Jo and Steve meet on the municipal pier at Aquatic Park (map), a place popular with local fishermen who enjoy the added bonus of great views in all directions. The 1400 foot-long circular pier was built in 1933; it has slowly deteriorated over the decades resulting in its recent closure to the public in 2022. That’s Pier 45 at Fisherman’s Wharf in the background at upper left, drawn in by the telephoto lens.
… and Now, the fishermen above were between the two lampposts below, near the far end of the sweeping breakwater pier. For the matching photos in this post Citysleuth found online images taken pre-closure. The cylindrical concrete structure seen ahead was meant to be a concessions stand complementing two similar ones on the shore at Aquatic Park but it never was completed.
Then… Steve wants to know why Jo refuses to go to the police about the stolen money. When Jo defends Chan, talking about his struggle to find his identity in America, Steve gets angry. In the background we see the liberty ship S.S. Jeremiah O’Brien berthed at Fort Mason, a rare survivor of the 2,710 liberty ships built to supply troops and critical materiel to Europe during WWII.
… and Now, The Jeremiah O’Brien was berthed here for many years but has since been moved to Pier 35. Note the decaying condition of the municipal pier’s concrete wall; note too the fence that was erected down the middle to exclude the public from this more dangerous seaward-facing half of the pier before it was finally closed completely.
This 1982 photo shows the Jeremiah O’Brien at its Fort Mason berth around the time Chan was filmed (compare it to the Then image above). It has been completely restored and is one of only two liberty ships still operational today. Interesting trivia - its engines were filmed for the engine room scenes in the movie Titanic.
Then… Steve lays into Jo, telling him there are no identity problems in the community any more. His voice rises … “What are you tripping on this sh-t for? The guy f-cked up man, he couldn’t cope with it”.
… and Now, in both photos we see an art deco building alongside the Aquatic Park beach at far left. Originally a bathhouse, it’s now a maritime museum.
… in 1948 … The pier and the bathhouse are seen here in 1948, nine years after the depression-era W.P.A-funded Aquatic Park project officially opened to the public (the aforementioned unfinished concessions stand is visible at the end of the pier). Designed to resemble an ocean-going ship the sleek streamline-moderne building provided swimmers with changing rooms and showers . At one time it also housed a private upscale restaurant and nightclub until outraged protests succeeded in shutting it down. Note the sidewalk waves lapping against the Beach Street entrance - a touch of whimsy.
… and Now, The bathhouse became a maritime museum right after troops who used the building during WWII handed it back. Hey, those waves are still there today!
Then… Steve gets increasingly agitated but Jo is adamant; he won’t report his friend to the police. They separate, backs turned.
… and Now, the Golden Gate bridge is but one of the many fine views from here. The pier wall was showing damage 40 plus years ago, above, but is far worse now, below.
Back at Chester’s Cafe they sit, wordless, Steve silently stewing. Chester’s was popular with workers from the cable car barn at the end of the block, some of them seen here in the background.
Tom’s son Ray McDonald (Ray Hallor) has exciting news to share with his family. Outside his parent’s home he waves to a passing cable car.
Then … The cable car is heading east on the Pacific Avenue cable line that at one time ran west to Divisidero and south down Larkin to Brannan. This style of cable car, known as a cable train, was comprised of a grip car pulling an enclosed passenger trailer car - (go here for a wonderful 1929 Movietone Newsreel video of a cable train on the Pacific Avenue line and a link to a detailed article on its history). As the cable train passes the Victorian home below the highlighted buildings in the background establishes where this was filmed - at the corner of Pacific and Gough in Pacific Heights.
… and Now, the Pacific Avenue cable line closed in 1929 and the Victorian home, at 1895 Pacific Avenue (map) was replaced in 1931 by this five story Art Deco apartment building. The buildings highlighted above aren’t visible now from street level, but…
… this higher perspective reveals that they are still there ; this is the rear of 1810 and 1824 Jackson Street, built in 1917.
An interesting aside: while it’s a shame, looking back, that yet another of the city’s fine Victorians was sacrificed, at least the replacement brought its own architectural charm as exemplified by this recent photo of the eye-catching art deco detailing in its lobby.
Ray excitedly shows his mother an acceptance letter from the San Francisco D.A.’s office offering him his first job as a deputy assistant attorney. Mary (Lila Leslie) couldn’t be more proud.
Then … Tom and Polly are next to arrive at the McDonald home (its street number is 1421 per the image at the top of this post).
… and Now, it’s supposedly in San Francisco but in fact this was 1421 N. Hudson Avenue in Hollywood (the wave to the cable car was a bit of a stretch!). But the charming original house and the one next to it are no longer there; they were replaced in the 1950s by this group of multi-dwelling buildings.
Then … Clarence Walker (Rex Lease), a San Francisco Chronicle reporter who has taken a fancy to Polly, also shows up.
… and Now, The houses behind Clarence are also gone, victims of commercial creep from the adjacent Wilcox Avenue. What disappoints CitySleuth is how multi-dwelling and commercial properties have pushed aside the charm of what used to be a lovely residential street.
They all congratulate Ray on his appointment. Tom too has news to share - his foreman is leaving and he fully expects to get the job.
Then … There’s more action on this street; we next see Tom’s dog stealing the newspaper from the steps of a neighboring house for his master.
Then … The irate homeowner lives in # 1425. He’s seen this before - he glares towards Tom’s house right next door.
… and Now, Lo and behold! This house, at 1425 N. Hudson Avenue, was built in 1906 and is still there. Over 100 years old but it’s exactly the same. Compare the porch, the posts, the siding, the windows and the steps with the two movie images above. Many thanks to reader Notcom who found this location for CitySleuth.
When Tom returns to work he is bitterly disappointed to learn that in spite of having been recommended for the foreman job it has been given to ‘Bull” Collins (Tom O’Brien) (on the right). It doesn’t help that he’s a failure as a printer (the facial acting of the silent movie era is perfectly captured in this frame).
CitySleuth delivered a San Francisco Public Library online presentation on Feb 2, 2024 on how film noir directors used locations to enhance their storytelling and why they often chose Telegraph Hill when they filmed in San Francisco. SFPL hes posted it on their youTube channel - you can watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9r7fB3P6hA
Jo’s paranoia continues while he walks the streets of Chinatown. He keeps glancing back to see if he’s being followed. Below, he’s at a movie house next to a poster display of stereotypical (at that time) images of Asian actors. Director Wang was making a point.
Then … As he moves on, passing another poster display, we see details of the theatre - it’s the Bella Union Theatre at 825 Kearny Street.
… in 1979 … here’s a vintage photo of it pictured as it was when the Chan Is Missing scene was filmed there. The poster displays are clearly visible, as too is the ticket booth.
… and Now, the theatre closed in 1985; the remodeled building is now a self-help academy for the elderly.
A little history: the theatre opened in the 1890s as the Shanghai Theatre offering Chinese drama, seen below in a contemporaneous postcard. Around 1912 it was renamed the Kearny Theater, switching to burlesque entertainment. It became the Bella Union in 1948, until it closed 37 years later.
Then … Jo heads north on Kearny, nervously looking back. Across the street is the Chinatown Chevron gas station on the corner of Jackson and straight ahead Kearny climbs towards Telegraph Hill. The store alongside him is next to the Bella Union; it’s on the right in the 1979 image above.
… and Now, in today’s matching photo the gas station has been built over and the distant view up the hill is hidden by trees. An apartment building that looks architecturally out of place on this block has replaced the store on the left.
Then … Next he’s seen walking south on Grant Avenue approaching the triple arched entrance to Central Bank at 933 Grant and just past that, Chung Fat grocery at 921 Grant. Li Po’s bar is visible across the street.
… and Now, the venerable Li Po is still there and 933 (with a remodeled entrance) is still a bank - Cathay Pacific’s Chinatown branch. But the grocery is now a gift shop.
Then … Just around the corner from Grant on Washington Street Waverly Place tees in from the left at the Wonton Noodles sign. Ping’s Place restaurant straight ahead is at 835 Washington (check out the little girl passing by - she has just spotted the camera).
… and Now, in a recent view from the same spot what’s notable is the Chat Hai Jeweler’s store across the street at 864 Washington. The same long-lived business and sign can be seen in the Then image above.
Then … Watch out for this moment in the movie; as it was being filmed the newspaper vendor, not prepped in any way, slowly turns back, glimpsing the camera without even the slightest hint of a reaction.
… and Now, this is the southwest corner of Grant and Washington - the view looks along Washington. The distinctive tiles above, now behind the corner store’s security bars, have been plastered over…
… but more than 30 years earlier those tiles were seen behind Rita Hayworth as she crosses Washington in the 1947 movie The Lady From Shanghai (compare them to the Then image above - they are identical). Waverly Place tees in along the block.
… and Now, the matching view today.
