Walk A Crooked Mile - Lunch Break
Then … Igor Braun, unaware that the FBI have been watching him at work on his latest painting, takes a break for lunch.
… and Now, the previous post identified his address as 1087 Clay Street on the corner of Mason. Today there’s a security gate across the entrance, a sad comment on modern times but at least nicely styled.
Then … From the doorway of the 1055 Mason apartment building where the FBI had set up their stakeout an agent watches the suspect cross Clay Street.
… and Now, there’s now a fire escape on the house across the street, mandated by its added fourth story.
Then … Tailed by the agent, he approaches a crowd congregated around the scene of an accident.
… and Now, this is the junction of Sacramento Street and Grant Avenue in Chinatown; the brickwork of the business at far right is now covered by colorful painted murals. On a historical note, Grant Avenue’s ornately distinctive lampposts were installed in time for visitors attending the 1939 Golden Gate International Exhibition.
Then … Viewed across Grant from the reverse direction, Braun pushes his way through the crowd. The building at the top of Sacramento is the Brocklebank Apartments (famously the home of Madeleine Elster in Vertigo). Both the Brocklebank and the Western Union Telegraph Office on the corner at 669 Grant would appear one year later in scenes from the movie Impact. Note the Chronicle in the newsstand trumpeting victories by the Bay Area’s baseball teams, the San Francisco Seals and the Oakland Oaks.
… and Now, believe it or not, it is still possible to send a telegram (over the web, not via Western Union) but this Telegraph Office closed decades ago: its space is now part of the adjacent business, the China Bazaar at 667 Grant Avenue. (By the way, in 1929, more than 200 million telegrams were sent but by 2005 the number was down to 21,000).
Then … Braun crosses the road then turns right, along the 600 block of Grant. There are lots of eateries to choose from here, including the Far East Cafe seen across the street.
… and Now, 72 years later, the Far East, at 631 Grant, is still there. It dates back to 1920 so it will celebrate its centennial this year; how many restaurants in San Francisco can make that claim? But as we will see, Igor Braun has a different place in mind.
Then … This shot of him entering a restaurant offers two clues as to its location - the address number 723 next door and the window reflections of the buildings across the street. This is the famous Hang Far Low restaurant (a name that provoked many a smirk over the years) at 725 Grant (map). You can just make out - on the window at upper right - part of the decoratively written Hang Far Low. Click or tap the image to see how the gallery and windows of the buildings opposite 725 Grant today would match those 1948 reflections.
The restaurant’s menu, as did the window above, advertised Chop Suey & Noodles.
Then … Hang Far Low restaurant is no longer in business but it too had a long history. It opened in the 1880s, was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake fire, then reopened in 1907 on the top two floors of the building depicted in the vintage postcard below. The arrow points to the same street-level entrance seen forty years later in the Then image above. By 1960 Hang Far Low had closed, succeeded by the Four Seas restaurant.
… and Now, the Four Seas too was destined to have a long run, finally closing in 2013. Its entrance had been moved to the right below the awning. Today the upstairs restaurant tradition carries on with the Michelin-starred Mr. Jiu’s, now accessed from the rear of the building at 28 Waverly Place. A clothing store specializing in kimonos currently occupies the ground level.
… a vintage photo … this c. 1950 photo shows the Western Union office and the 700 block of Grant Avenue as the moviemakers experienced them; the arrow points to the Hang Far Low entrance. Note its vertical sign ‘Noodles, Hang Far Low’. Note too the ‘Kimonos Pajamas’ sign close by; they too had an extended Chinatown presence.